Sunday, June 10, 2007

Maun Sounds Like A Fun Place To Be / मौन सौन्ड्स लिके आ फुं प्लेस तो बे

Drums thundered and waists shook as feet stomped the ground in dance at the freedom square in Sedie, Maun, over the weekend। The dust rose up in the air as a means of appeasing the Mbungu Wa Kathimana ancient gods to welcome and cleanse Botswana National Front (BNF) leader Otsweletse Moupo and his party from the misfortunes that are threatening to tear it apart.
And believe it or not, the cultural cleansing rites seem to have worked, as the sky suddenly turned cloudy and the soft breeze cooled the hot weather.

I found these on Mmengi Online. Mmegi is published by Dikgang Publishing Company (DPC). The newspaper was established in 1984. Mmegi is the only daily independent newspaper in Botswana. The newspaper is read by a cross-section of the population including students, policy makers, intellectuals and the business community. Over the past 10 years Mmegi won the prestigious Institute of Bankers “Newspaper of the year Award” nine times.
Bats terrorise Maun Civil Servants
NOMSA NDLOVU
CORRESPONDENT MAUN:
An invasion by an army of bats has chased civil servants in Komane village, 26km west of Maun, out of their houses to seek accommodation elsewhere. Councillor Morolong Mosimanyane of Komane ward brought the matter to the attention of the Minister of Environment, Wildlife and Tourism Kitso Mokaila last week and said the bats have been terrorising the village since 2004.
He said that the bats use ceilings as their abode and the most affected houses are those of the teachers, nurses, and local police officers. Morolong told Mokaila that wildlife officers should be sent to deal with the bats. He said if wildlife officers had not prevented them, the residents would have long used other means to wipe out the animals.
"When we reported the matter, your officers instructed that we should not kill the creatures because they are a protected species. They said the only thing we should do is to remove them and patch the ceiling, but we tried and failed. Therefore I request you to send your officers to remove them from our area because we are tired of the anguish that they are causing us," he said.
Morolong explained that the animals are inactive by day but at night they come out of their hiding places and trouble residents. Their noises prevent the civil servants and their families from sleeping and cause panic. The occupants of the houses were then forced to move out and seek accommodation elsewhere. The problem affects most villagers with modern houses.
Morolong told Mmegi that besides the noises, the bats defecate and urinate constantly, causing a pungent smell and resistant stains on clothes, walls and the ceiling.

What's Maun Like? / वहत इस मौन लिके?

What's Maun like? Widely spaced and dusty. But I can see that there is a lot to explore. I saw my first Boabab trees from the road about 50k outside of town. That made me feel as though I was nearing journeys end. the countryside is broad and flat. There are small settlements dotted around with compounds of thatthced rond-houses and square rond houses also thatthed and more modern style houses. Cows, donkeys and goats occasionally break the monotony of a long straight highway by crossing it, making the bus perform a loooooong slooow down which precipitates a flash flood of shoes bottles and small luggage forward beneath the seats.
I arrived in Maun yesterday evening. We passed the school on theway in. Lads appeared to be playing rugby on a dustbowl of a pitch. There was a big crowd of spectators and the teams wore blue and green. I imagined anyone on that pitch would beabout 2kg heavier when they finnished from all the dust theye'd swallow and breathe in.
I notice sign posts directing me to places that I had heard of from my induction in London. Now I am here I really see how spread out maun is. I'll try and have some images for you next time i write. I'll also be able to tell you about my first day at work.
Stay tuned!

First Day In Maun / फर्स्ट दय इन मौन

I've just arrived in Maun. I spent my first night in Botswana at the splendid Boiketlo Lodge in Gaborone. It's really well placed opposite the Bank and Telecom ofices. There's a driving school 'office' under a tree outside the back gate which faces the Telecom & Bank. The driving school itself consists of an obstacle course of orange cones on a patch ofground beside the road a little further along. A man was entertaining the instructiors singing to a guitar. This was another good introduction to Botswana.
Mr. Moipolai says that Lonely Planet has got it wrong about his guest house. They describe it as 'noisy' apparently. He wasn't happy about that. The edition I read quite rated the place, which is why I chose it. It's certainly not noisy. So any of you with an old edition of Lonely Planet which describes Boiketlo Lodge as noisy, you'd better update it and say that it is clean, well appointed and quiet with a delicate perfume of woodsmoke on the evening air.
Mr Moipolai says that LP perhaps mistook the natural exuberance of Motswana for irritating noise. We are jolly people, we always greet, domella ma! Domella rra! You will see it when you get the bus, we are always greeting.
I was looking forward to a bit of this as things had been pretty quiet I thought. Everyone on the Mainliner kept themselves to themselves and everyone I'd seen in Gabborone deported themselves with the utmost decorum.
This changed I am happy to say, when I reached the bus station. It was as bright, noisy, ramshackle and full of human life as I had expected.Busses heave in and out, their touts roam the area shouting their destinations. People laden with great tarten laundry bags of luggage surge back and forth, with politeness and decorum. Vendors hawk fruit, mouth watering packets of chicken and chips made by Hungry Lion & Cicken Licken, chicken pies by Pie Perfect, Cold water, frozen into ice, Iron Brew, sweeties in buckets, wallets, passport covers & pocket-books, The Voice, The Botswana Guardian, pencils, plastic doccument wallets, air time for mobile phones.
The bus slowly fills up with passengers and vendors pass on and off like salts through a cell.There's always space to squeeze by and everything passes off with the utmost tact and decorum. There's some banter between passengers and vendors but everyone kepps themselves to themselves and are decorous.
Dr. Scientist
As we pull out of the bus station we pass more vendors stalls and food spots. Then, at one corner I see a crowd of people cathered round a larger shack. Inside is a sound system beside which sits a man with a really curious peice of woodwork in his hands.
It looks as though he is holding an instrument madefrom planks and 2 by four, held together with bolts. He's advertised as Dr. Scientist. There's a pile of compact discs on the sound system and a hand printed T shirt swings above them. He's tuning up to play that gorgeous rippling African guitar music. Notes and phases sparkle out and hit you in the heart. I'm straining my ears backwards as we pass away listening to the stretche d notes through the doppler effect. Resolved: I will track down and buy a copy of Dr. Scientist's CD when i return to Gaborone.

Intercape Mainliner / इंटर-कापे Mainliner

I am not eaten by Werewolves and survive my encounter with the hostile world beyond the bus-station.I observe closely what Jo'burg looks like as we pull out of the bus station on the Intercape Mainliner bound for Gaborone, 6 hours away.
We pass through streets lined with smart, low-rise, 1950's style office buildings and more modern standard concrete buildings. The streets are wide low valleys and have a nice mountainous feel to them, one side of the street in freezing shade, one side in bright sunlight. The place has a sunday feel to it, very few people on the streets. There's a lazy mellow atmosphere. I nod off for about three hours and when I wake up we're out in the country in the magical 2 hours before sunset.
The green, red and yellow landscape becomes more subtly coloured and reflects the delicate sunset colours in the sky. Along the way are scrubby spiny kops which smoulder in misty smokey reds, oranges and purple. I really want to be out there, just for an hour or so, to take a walk into the mysterious scrub and over to one of the kops, that would be a nice introduction to the country. Brew up some tea on a tiny wood fire and enjoy the smell of dusty earth, saps and woodsmoke as night falls. Resolved: I will do this as soon as I can when I reach Maun.